Friday September 23rd, 2011 by Nonita
You really have to turn into a kind of Speedy Gonzales in order to keep up with the velocity
at which the fashion season flashes past your eyes. Lucky here at modelmanagement.com
we all have speedy Gonzales’ hats, so we caught up just about in time with the 10 best
collections of London Fashion Week S/S 2012.
1. Acne | Interpreting Morocco
If someone could concoct a recipe for cool -a magic recipe, one that works every season – that is Jonny Johansson at Acne. Once again the Acne girl is one of the coolest girls in London and if you look at the fabulous bi-coloured hair and the apparent simplicity of the garments on the catwalk it is all oh-so-effortless. As if! That is how you spot a great designer, when he makes fashion look easy. We love!
2. House Of Holland | Skinhead Girl
Just like DKNY is so New York, the House of Holland girl couldn’t be more London.
This season, the cool London kid mastered one of the huge trends for S/S 2012: mesh
making it work in dresses, skirts and separates. The highlight was a tube skirt teamed
up with an animal print crop top, worn by a very sexy model with a fabulous bob hair cut.
Henry Holland’s talent lays not only in his natural effortless cool vibe but most importantly
in the fact that he really knows his audience. The animal print collars toughened up the
softness of the palette in the lovely sheer long sleeved blouses and although we are not
crazy about the Flinstone like print, or the school girl plaid skirts, it all seems to work rather
well together. Nice one Henry!
3. Ann Sofie Back Atelje | Dark Rainbow
Amidst the fashion world’s bright rainbow, Ann Sofie Back’s neutrals appear as a
breath of fresh air. Deconstruction is Ann Sofie’s signature and it is present once
again on the lapels of those fabulous jackets and coats. A sophisticated skinny
belt is the accent this season and it gives her masculine tailoring and cut an air
We love the coats and jackets and the fabulous pieces towards the end of the
4. Burberry | Winter is Over
In a world were acceleration and speed seems to be the order of the day – we want it all and we want it now – Christopher Bailey’s Burberry collection for Spring Summer 2012 is a celebration of things that take time to do, like the designer puts it. The Burberry girl this season is a craft lover, she fills up her lonely hours with art and crafts, learning to crochet, knit, embellish and sew and then she uses those skills to decorate her own clothes. We love that vision. The colours, the hats, the bags and the coats are as utilitarian as they are romantic and we can’t help but fall head over heels for the perfect length of those lovely full skirts. The shapes of the legendary British artist Henry Moore were the inspiration for this wonderful and feminine collection. Attention grabber: For once it isn’t the trench but the parka!
5. Christopher Kane | Bad Girls Gone Bad
It is hard to believe that the inspiration for such an elegant collection came from photographs of girls in grim council-estate bedrooms, but when you look past the gold and the silver you start recognizing the shapes. Another fashion alchemist.
But who are the girls at Christopher Kane this season?
They are “the girls you hate at school” – Says the designer, pinpointing the look of the models who strutting on the runway, one after the other, appear as gangs of trouble making girls, the kind that even bully the boys.
Simple pool sandals were the show’s staple shoe and they worked fantastically well giving each look a relaxed and chic, luxe, look and feel.
The moral of the story: not everything is what it looks like.
6. Clements Ribeiro | Home Is Where The Heart Is
The inspiration for Inacio Ribeiro and Suzanne Clements this season came from
their home sweet home, hence the floral prints, lace and patterns. The designers
know exactly what they do well and they are milking it this season with this
beautiful and girly Spring Summer 2012 collection.
Aren’t those lovely floral print dresses with lace inserts and those pretty jumpers
worn over flirty little skirts what we all want to wear come spring?
>> Click here to watch the video via Tom Berger<<
7. Marios Schwab | Chiaroscuro
Mario’s Schwab catwalk this season was a mastery of light and dark.
And sexiness. He used fabric as an artist would use paint or graphite
to play with the concept of chiaroscuro. The result? Stunning crochet,
see through and peek a boo dresses that are as covetable as they
are saleable. After all, doesn’t every woman want to look sexy?
We particularly loved the straw hat, the suimsuits and the fact that
he brought sexy back, not only with his dresses and trench coats but
also with the shoes and those lovely cuffs.
8. Sass & Bide | Opposing Forces
Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton rocked the colour of the season
-bright I-am-here-look-at me-yellow – inserting it cleverly in the shape
of the most fabulous necklaces and accessories instead of clothes and
we love them!
The hair was a highlight at Sass & Bide this season too; a tidy and
tres chic middle parted chignon which added elegance to the clothes.
The pieces on the runway were, as usual, stemming from so many influences
yet they had that fresh, modern, clean and minimalistic look that is so
characteristic of the brand. We are huge fans of Sass & Bide, they rock!
9. Pringle Of Scotland | Celtic Chic
You really can’t help but applaude the creativity at Pringle Of Scotland.
The 200-year-old label, famous worldwide for its knitwear was headed
by Alistair Carr this time– a designer who had never worked with knitwear
before. Delving into the brands rich archive the designer found inspiration
to rework some of the label’s signature pieces, such as the cardigan and
the argyle. We love the juxtaposition of the bright colours against the chic
gray, the loose trousers and those amazing metal tip pumps.
The blouses, skirts, jackets and dresses are stunning too. We love this collection!
10. Ziad Ghanem | Matka Joanna
There are designers who use fashion to make clothes and there are designers
that use fashion to tell a story, to write a poem…
This season London’s fabulous cult couturier upped the drama – if that is even
possible – by bringing back alive the story of Matka Joanna od Aniołów (Polish
for Mother Joan of the Angels) a 1961 drama film on demonic possession also
known as The Devil and the Nun.
Directed by Jerzy Kawalerowicz, the film is set in a seventeenth century Polish
convent were a priest is sent to investigate a case of demonic possession, there
he meets Mother Joan – the most possessed of all the nuns – and he journeys
to hell and back in order to save her.
Of the wonderful pieces on the catwalk our favourites were the white skirt/trousers
worn by a topless male model -Yum! – followed by a delightful sheer peek a boo black
gown and the dreamiest see through white long sleeved dress.
The music as usual at Ziad Ghanem’s catwalk was fabulous and the stars of the show
(aka the models) were amazing again, their acting skills were superb. The absolute star
of the show this time was a gorgeous mini model with the most stunning hair who totally
rocked the catwalk and stole the hearts of the audience, clad in a stunning Ghanem mini
white dress. The designer’s little niece we hear. Awww indeed!
Our favourite show from London this season.
And that is all folks! Tune in next week to catch up with the best from Milan Fashion Week S / S 2012
And if you missed our New York Fashion Week review you can catch up here.
Which were your favourite collections from London this season?