Remember the girl who lived under a tree? The human chess piece who wears an incredible dress and has her movements controlled by a robotic voice that commands her to move onto the next position? Remember the ghostly vision of Kate Moss floating away magically, wrapped in hundreds and hundreds of layers of soft rippling fabric and fading away into a bullet of light? Remember the delicate girl who wears a pretty white dress and is viciously attacked by a pair of robotic creatures who shoot paint at her, splashing it all over her face and her beautiful white dress? The girl who after spending so much time underwater, mutated into this fantastic deep sea goddess, stealing all the colours and shapes from all the fishes and creatures that lived with her, down in the depths of the profound and endless ocean?

Remember the drama, the spectacle, the storytelling, the passion, the tears that Alexander McQueen brought to us each season with his fantastic drama filled fashion shows?

Come the new season, I found myself a little depressed, completely disoriented and totally drama-starved and I couldn’t help but wonder… is there any drama left in fashion after McQueen? and if so, where is it, where can I find it?

I decided to answer these questions and so I embarked in a voyage around the world, looking at each and every fashion week, in a desperate quest to find the drama in fashion. Hanging a huge ‘DO NOT DISTURB’ sign outside my door, I spent the next two nights scrutinizing each collection, seeking desperately to feel the same way that I felt watching a McQueen show.

So…after Milan, New York, London and Paris… after Takhoon, Zac Posen, Vera Wang, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Diane von Fustenberg, Calvin Klein, Anna Sui, Alexander Wang, Lanvin, Carolina Herrera, Versace, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Marni, Armani, Fendi, Dsquared2, Dolce & Gabanna, Botega Venetta, Gareth Pugh, Balenciaga, Balmain, Nina Ricci, Rick Owens, Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Kane, Julien MacDonald, Missoni, Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Paul Smith, Burberry, Erdem, Prada, Ziad Ghanem, Junya Watanabe, Dolce & Gabanna, Issey Miyake, Hussein Chalayan, Comme des Garcons, Antonio Berardi, Jason Wu, Viktor and Rolf & Ann Valerie Hash…

… I was not surprised to discover that sadly, not many people are paying the level of attention that Lee paid when putting on a show.

With the advent of technology, the new live-streaming and the pressure that designers are under to show their clothes from a commercial point of view, do fashion shows risk loosing their entertaining value? Could shows end up becoming a mere robotic parade of clotheshorses strutting out of tune to the sound of charts songs? What do we, the public want? Do we want to see a drama filled spectacle? or do we just want to see clothes?

I don’t. I want the drama. I want the spectacle. I want to know the story behind the clothes and then play dress up and be the girl in that story.

I want fashion to teach me something, to entertain me, to tell me a story about someone, to talk to me about things that I wouldn’t otherwise have thought about hadn’t I seen the show. I want an intelligent collection, inspired in something magnificent, delivered with exquisite attention to detail, with beautiful music that makes my hair stand on end, not just a mish mash of military mixed with check and African print, worn by a bored looking model who struts to the sound of a charts tune. If I wanted to see clothes hanging and listen to charts music playing in the background I’d go to the mall!

So after my exhausting search, these are the people who in my opinion delivered a show filled with drama and entertainment value, not just models wearing pretty clothes. People who are not only making you see but also think and feel…

LONDON
Ziad Ghanem – Fall/Winter 2010

The clothes, the amazing music, the simplicity yet intricate architecture of all the details in Ziad’s spectacle, is more than worthy of the applause and standing ovation that the public gave him at the end for bringing us, a magnificent burlesque inspired show, revealing more layers than we thought it could possibly have.

Immodesty Blaize stripping was just the cherry on top of a delicious show, which I shall continue to savour and remember for more than just this season. Clap, clap, clap Ziad.

I can’t help but think of him like the next: Alexander McQueen. He reminds me a lot of Lee. He has the same tailoring and couture exquisiteness, the same sensibility and poetic romanticism, the same enfant terrible aggressive-sexy edge, fantastic musical taste and his complete passion for drama and for giving his audience quality time. Ziad won my heart, to me his, is one of the best shows around this season.

NEW YORK
Jason Wu – Fall 2010

As sceptic as I was to even press the play button to start watching Jason Wu’s show, it hit me right from the beginning. “Wu did what?” – asks Tim Blanks, “Wu did what? Wu Wowed!” – says a sincerely sounding, astonished, Kerry Washington.

“He picks good teachers” quite rigtly asserts Tim Blanks. The inspiration behind his collection? The late and beyong great: Irving Penn.

“The daywear was inspired by Irving’s personal style”- a sweet Jason Wu explains with evident love and admiration for the photographer -“I found some rare pictures of him shooting in this white collar button downs and slouchy trousers and that resulted in a very menswear inspired day look. Throwing a big menswear jacket over the top of one of the biggest dresses in the collection”.

“Irvings platinum prints were so beautiful, they looked like a veil had gone through them, and I did that through veiling feather with silk tulle, or veiling tafetta with silk hose, with embroidery”. – Says Jason.

The beautiful prints and detail on the dresses and clothes in Wu’s collection remind us of the people who Penn took pictures of, artists like the fantastic Cy Twombly, travellers wearing big plaid coats, Penn’s famous pictures of cigarette ends, which appear dabbed all over Jason’s dreamy huge dresses. The metallic gold leafing inspired on the paints of the New Guinea people.

Wearing Wu this season means not only wearing a beautiful piece, but wearing a work of art, inspired in the beautiful images of one of the most iconic and prolific photographers of our century. And it is all delivered in the most romantic and eerie show, which seems to talk about the profound admiration that
the designer feels for the photographer, who this season becomes his muse.

PARIS
Viktor and Rolf – Fall 2010

I always expect to see something of a freak show performance when I tune into the Viktor and Rolf channel. They are the safety net that I know I can throw myself blindy at, and I will always bounce back safely onto the ground, remembering the experience. The Willy Wonka brothers of fashion always know how to put on an entertaining show.

This time, they play with the idea of layering but not layering in the old boring way of layering, but a new idea of layering, that of actually constructing their entire collection by piling all the pieces, one of top of the other, on one single “older model”, who then teeters into the centre of the stage, wearing three times her body weight in clothes!

The pair of fashion maverics then appear on the stage and become part of the performance by proceeding to scientifically remove each piece from the “mother model” to then dress with it the other “younger models” and so the show takes form. What a Fabulous idea!

MILAN
Dolce & Gabanna – Fall 2010

Stefano and Domenico are the ones who always seem to make more of an effort when it comes to show time in Italy, in my opinion. This time, they take the humble avenue and they surrender themselves completely to their public. “What sold the most is black, which means that what our customer wants is black so we give you black” – say Stefano and domenico. “What sold the most is tailoring, so we give you tailoring. What sold the most was leopard print so…” Ok, you get the idea.

I have never seen so many tailored black jackets in the catwalk, in fact the show ends with a strutting parade of eighty-something models dressed in black tailored jackets…

I like these guys and although I am not crazy about the collection, I like them for trying, and I like the video that they showed in the background on their show, it was surprisingly romantic and emotional to see the designers and their team at work, drawing, cutting and sewing each piece, as the models strutted wearing them on the catwalk. That did it for me, the whole: this is us, you can see us, we are transparent. Very humbling. Like when you see a chef working on an open kitchen at a very expensive restaurant, and you get to see how he makes his art in the open. It makes a great impact in the mind I think, it’s like you trust it blindly and you don’t even feel the need to question it because it is all right there for you too see.

This show is Italian romantic drama at its very best:

And then there is another kind of show of its own: Hussein Chalayan.

Interesting choice of music-zapping in his show, where suddenly you find yourself hardly coping to keep up with all the action that seems to be going on in the catwalk. Although all you can see all the time are just models strutting and the lights of the ghost car that keeps re-appearing in the background, his show seems
to have another layer, that of a weird movie of a disturbing journey…

His clothes always seem to be questioning us: “Where the hell is the human race going and why the hell is it going there so fast?”

I liked his show but he is a category of his own, he is too far beyond fashion, his verse always talks about something else.

So, there is where I found the drama that I was craving to see in fashion this season.

‘Why shouldn’t – why couldn’t – fashion be emotional?’ – Alexander McQueen.

XO
-Nona

Alexis Mabille, Armani Prive and Valentino/ Photos by Marcio Madeira

Out of all yearly held fashion events, I get the most excited and intrigued by the Paris Haute Couture show. It brings together the wildest, most imaginative, elaborate and unique of fashion. Actually I’m not even too sure whether I would classify couture as fashion. Couture is definitely more timeless and independent of mainstream, highstreet fashion which turns a new leaf several times a year.

Christian Dior Spring 2010/ Photo by Monica Feudi

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2010/ Photo by Monica Feudi

Did you know that…

Haute Couture originally referred to the English-born fashion designer, Charles Frederick Worth, and his designership which he produced in Paris as early as the 19th century? I didn’t, until I started reading and educating myself further on Haute Couture and it’s meaning for fashion. One of the first things I came across was the fact that in France, haute couture is actually protected by law and it can be used only by firms that meet certain standards. Interesting, isn’t it?

Thimister Spring 2010/ Photo by Marcio Madeira

Couture Chanel 2010/ Photo by Monica Feudi

The standards under which fashion houses can be called Haute Couture include that they should “design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings, have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time and/or each season, present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.”  Official members include designers such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, and Jean Paul Gaultier, to name a few.

Valentino Spring 2010/ Photo by Marcio Madeira

The yearly Haute Couture shows gather an impressive and influential crowd, from the likes of Anna Wintour and many cool, highend fashion designers, to various famous personalities who are without fail, almost always occupying the frontrow.

Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles at the Chanel Spring 2010 show/ Photo by Luca Cannonieri

Dita Von Teese at the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2010 show/ Photo by Luca Cannonieri

Who caught your attention and made the biggest impact out of the 2010 Spring Haute Couture show? Tell us about it.

Marie Christine Pollet

Marc Charach interviews Marie Christine Pollet:

One of the most respected and trusted model industry experts Marie Christine Pollet, has now joined the team at modelmangement.com. I took the opportunity to find out more about her and her incredible achievements within the world of fashion.

Marc: Marie Christine, we are obviously extremely happy to have you as an executive member of our team. Your background and experience in the model industry is vast and I want to not only learn more about your many accomplishments but also to know a little about what drives you.

You now live in Barcelona, but where are you from originally?

Marie Christine Pollet: I was born in Paris where I completed my school studies and went on to major in drama and graphic design.

MC: And what led you towards the modeling industry?

MCP: I started my career as a model in Brussels where I finished my studies in “Les Beaux Arts”. I then casually passed by Barcelona thanks to a Belgian catalogue that was photographed in Spain. I fell in love with the city and with the man who later became the father of my children.
He already had a modeling agency and after working as a model and stylist in Barcelona I started to deal with the New Faces of the agency that later became the Group Models, quickly taking over as the director.

MC: What is it about the world of fashion and modelling that inspires you?

MCP: Besides being a field related to beauty, and fashion design where I was able to develop my artistic “gifts”, what excites me the most is the human relationship with young people who are starting in this profession. I am happy to guide them and help them grow as individuals while reaffirming themselves in this profession, helping them enhance both their personal qualities and their particular features that make them special.

MC: Over 20 years ago you founded Group Model Management, which is still considered to be one of the most important model agencies in Spain. What was the story and the concept behind Group?

MCP: At that time in Spain relations with the international fashion world was virtually nonexistent, and after a first trip to Paris, I realized that the strength of the agency would be to have its own models in order to access international relations. Then I started to organize model contests throughout Spain. I wanted to draw international attention to the Spanish models, in Spanish fashion, I think that Group has put in the effort to get it!

Marie Christine with models Vanesa Lorenzo, Veronica Blume and Mireia Canalda

MC: You are famous for the discovery of some of the top names in modelling, including supermodels such as Martina Klein, Veronica Blume, Esther Cañadas, Vanessa Lorenzo and Andres Velencoso. What is your secret for spotting such talent?

MCP: The secret! I think it’s to have this innate gift of seeing the photogenic possibilities in a person, to see the “angel” that lives within, which allows you to become exceptional.

MC: Who were your more recent model discoveries that are now heading for greatness?

MCP: The latest findings are not yet known to the public but are having much success, they have what it takes to make great careers: Gara Noel, Alazne Bilbao, Angelina Nawojcyk, Sara San Martin, Alejandro Rodriguez, David Hundertmark …. They have begun to travel and discover new worlds, to see other cultures, ultimately they’ve opened new horizons.

MC: You have also organised major modeling contests such as Ford supermodel of the world for Spain and Yo Dona. What is is about these contests that you enjoy the most?

MCP: To participate in the great opportunity presented to the young aspirants competitions, meet new people who you can guide and become friends with, share their hopes and their worries.

On the other hand it has allowed me to discover this beautiful country that is Spain, and travel around the world. I want to take this opportunity to thank all the agencies / schools in Spain that have always helped in these projects and to all the prestigious agencies that have worked so that my models can become Top Models.

MC: You’re currently organising the modelmanagement.com Fresh Faces 2010 contest. Tell us about this contest and the future of models that you are hoping to find.

MCP: I have great faith in this project, modelmanagement.com is a platform already well known in the fashion world, and it’s also a serious and professional company. I am sure that through the “Fresh Faces” competition we will bring the opportunity for many young people to become true professionals.

MC: It’s been a real pleasure talking with you and we hope that in the future you can contribute tips and advice to help aspiring and professional models further their careers…and good luck with the Fresh Faces contest!

Now this is total unfairness, when I was little-er’, ATARI gave me:

Frogger

Asteroids

Donkey Kong

Duck Hunt

Pong (!)

Space invaders

Ping ball

Pac man

I know! And the closest thing to a girly girl’s game that we, 80’s girls had, was bloody Mrs Pacman!!!
So much for fashion…

And what did ATARI unveil three days ago? ‘PROJECT CATWALK’ – THE VIDEO GAME!
Yup, every fashionistas favourite TV programme, as a game for the Nintendo Wii.

Now, the trouble is…I don’t even have a Wii!!! I have absolutely no plans whatsoever to go
and buy a Wii and in fact, until recently, I have been turning my nose up at any men who
would dare try date me, if they owned a Wii (or any other games consoles for that matter).
The conversation would be like:

Me:”Are you Single?”
Him:“Yes”.
Me:”Are you Working?”
Him: “Yes”.
Me:”Are you gay?”
Him: “No”.
Me:”Do you have a Wii?”
Him: “Yes”.
Me:” NEXT” !!!

Hmmmm, maybe it’s time to lighten up a little on the strict dating requirements…
’cause I am dying to have a go at it!!!

And guess what?!? You get extra points for “good catwalking”.

Here is how it goes:

“It is the player’s job to sort through a virtual closet of items to locate and drag them onto the body of a model avatar. Then it’s on to hair and makeup, using the wireless controller to apply blush and eyeliner. Chunky highlights? Check. Deep Blue Sea lipstick? Check. On the runway, you use the controllers to effect a perfect strut, blow kisses and strike poses; the judges respond with signature quips, which sound suspiciously like sound bites lifted from last season’s episodes.”

“The game, by the way, is targeted to girls ages 6 to 12″- ERIC WILSON, from The New York Times.

“Girls ages 6 to 12″ ? — OH! … surely that’s a little “ageist”!

So unfair.

Seriously, kids these days!

The good news is that this looks to me, like another step closer towards the dream of every boy /girl and girl in this world, the mythical: “Virtual closet”.

Remember “Clueless”?
XO
-Nona

After creating her model profile on modelmanagement.com Susan attended one of our New York Photo Sessions to get great pictures to show to agencies, so she can be represented and work as a model. We spoke with Susan to see what her experience was.

Where are you from and where do you live now?

I was born and raised in NYC, which is where I also currently reside. I’d have to say that I’ve been truly blessed to be cultured from such a diverse city, and furthermore to be residing in one of America’s top fashion capitals.

Have you ever modelled before if so tell us about it?

I have never modelled before prior to the end of last year, but this was something I always wanted to do. Being first generation Asian-American, my parents were always strong advocates on completing and attaining the finest education possible as top priority, in which I owe much gratitude to for my undergrad degree in Economics from America’s finest Ivy League School, Columbia University.  At the time I hated it. I kept telling my parents how unfair I thought it was because there’s so much opportunity out there especially more so at such a young age.  But I am thankful for it now, because it has made me a more well-rounded and grounded individual.  Now that I’ve built myself a solid background, I am very eager to explore my life-long passion in modelling.

What is it about modelling that excites you and so many others like you?

I love modelling. When I’m at my photo shoots and the camera starts rolling I feel as if I’m in my own state of mind. In a way, I find it very similar to acting where I’m role-playing, but messages are only conveyed through facial expression and body language, which I believe to make a far more reaching statement than words.  Furthermore, modelling also allows me to express my creativity through my idea of fashion and style. I love taking photographs that make people think twice.

Who do you admire most in the modelling or fashion world and why?

I admire Tyra Banks because she is bold and fierce. I think she’s beautiful inside and out which makes her not only a phenomenal model, but a phenomenal role model.  She has educated so many young women all around the world, through her talk show, book, and TV show about modelling and what it takes to be a model.  Tyra is smart, talented, and one of the few models who shares her wisdom in modelling with others.

How did you hear about modelmanagement.com?

Being very resourceful with the internet, I was searching for a great photographer to jump start my modelling career with some great headshots. I came across modelmanagement.com’s starter pack and thought it was a great way for models like me who are fairly new but have so much to offer, to get the exposure I need to be discovered.

Your photographer for your photo session was New York based Dominique Vinciguerra , how did the shoot go?

Dominique is a great photographer. Being that I’m fairly new, he made me feel comfortable right away.  With his keen eye for detail and his years of experience in the industry, he was able to provide me with a lot of direction during my photo shoot.  I believe one major attribute that clearly distinguishes Dominique from other photographers is his ongoing willingness to help. Even after an amazing photo shoot with him, he offered another session solely to discuss and critique the photos he had taken of me.  I walked away with valuable advice I can use to take my modelling career further.

What are your hopes and ambitions for your future as a model?

My hope as a model is to instil confidence among other women especially young women, where looking thin and looking a certain way is an uphill battle, which leads them to resort to plastic surgery and harmful diets at a very young age. I’m hoping clarify the misconception that modelling is not just about looking beautiful, rather it is about accepting who you are and being proud of what you have.

You can see Susan’s profile here and if you are interested in representing her send her a message on modelmanagement.com

Fashion designer Tom Ford

An Art History major, Ford went into fashion like many seem to do: knowing the right people at the right time. The early 90’s was a time of change for the young designer, who was entering a big European fashion house, Gucci.  And it was during this moment that Gucci was looking to strengthen its women’s wear by making it their cornerstone.  But as Gucci was still somewhat vague and obscure, the fashion house definitely didn’t have a strong footing in the fashion business.

Tom Ford on the runway in 2001. Photo by Gruber/ Fashion Wire Daily

Following his position as menswear and shoe designer, Ford was soon promoted to creative director. As I was reading more on the talented designer, I came across an interesting article about his former role and success at Gucci. And as featured on Businessweek.com the period during which Tom Ford acted as the creative director of Gucci, he ”defined the brand’s sexy, edgy look throughout the decade and revitalized the label. Ford’s fitted, skin-baring designs, like this one from 2004, appealed to both consumers and fashion critics. During his tenure, Gucci’s overall sales increased from $230 million to almost $3 billion.” Not too shabby!

From his latest collection

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2010

Since leaving Gucci, Tom Ford started his own fashion house, ’Tom Ford’ with sleek and stylish menswear, shoes and accessories for both men and women. Very cool!

The best of the best. From Tom Ford's cool new collection

No doubt due to seeing success in he field of fashion as well as business, as it turned out, he went onto trying his hand at film directing. In 2009, he directed his first full-length movie, A Single Man, which was based on the novel of the same name by Christopher Isherwood.  The film which premiered at Venice International Film Festival was nominated for a Golden Lion. The film features acclaimed actors Colin Firth and Julianne Moore. Colin Firth was recently awarded with the BAFTA award for his performance in the film, and he’s also been nominated for an Academy Award, Golden Globe and a Screen Actor’s Guild award.  Also Julianne Moore saw recognition for her performance in the film.

Tom Ford in the process of creating his latest masterpiece, A Single Man

So if you’re thinking what to do over the weekend, why not go and see how the fashion designer performs as a director? Let us know if you think his creativity works as well on screen as it does on the catwalk.

Want to know who absolutely everyone in London is going totally crazy for?
Two words: Ziad Ghanem.

After being hit by the news of McQueen, I had resigned myself to the thought that fashion
had become a sombre place and that it would never be the same again.

Just when I thought that it was all lost, that all the magic and drama was gone, that nothing
or no-one after Lee would ever be capable of making my heart skip a beat… he appeared.

Suddenly, without previous warning, a parade of the most fantastic fashion creatures was unfolding
right in front of my eyes, pouring more fabulousness and drama than what I was actually prepared to
see again. Refraining from blinking so as to not miss a second of his incredibly sublime spectacle, I felt compelled to stand up and start clapping vigorously at the end of the show.

I held my breath as each piece that appeared on the catwalk looked like it was going to be the grand finale, but it was merely the beginning. Here is Part two and Part three (where the official grand finale takes place), standing ovation from the audience included and trust me, that crowd is one very tough crowd to please.

Ever since Ziad Ghanem and the Maiden Britain collective presented their fabulous A/W collection during London Fashion Week last February, press requests at VOGUE are said to be pouring in, in particular for the amazing leopard print ‘Vogue’ outfit that stylists and editors went crazy for.

The piece was exclusively shot for the October issue of British Vogue. ‘A British Style Celebration’ photographed by no other than Mario Testino and the model? This lovely lady called Naomi Campbell.

VOGUE October 2009 - Naomi Campell in Ziad Ghanem shot by Mario Testino

Need I say more?

World… I have a new favourite fashion designer: Le cult couturier Ziad Ghanem.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-Ziad, where have you been all my life? Kidding. I have just recently discovered your work and I am so excited that I get carried away…
-I am like a cult movie I like the enigma of it. Also I am a one to one person and a fashion whore sometimes too.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-Where are you from originally and how long have you been living in London for?
I am Lebanese and I moved to london in the late 90’s.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-How and when did you start designing?
When I was 5 years old I started making drawings of my mum in different dresses. All my life I designed and made clothes without having a title of a designer. I started my label few years ago and I am still experimenting.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-I see a lot of theatricality, art and drama in your shows, where does your inspiration come from in that sense?
I am inspired from my surroundings. From Life and people. From films Music and reality and the simple matters. I believe we do not need to explore another planet … What men needs to be inspired is a mirror.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-What was your first collection about? What was the inspiration behind it?
My first collection was called ‘Support your local Hooker’ the inspiration was the lack of money and plenty of ambition and determination. My flat mates in Soho at the time helped me make the clothes on their ‘NIGHT’ off.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-And in your latest collection? – which I am so blown away with by the way, so much drama! – what’s the inspiration?
Thank you. The Inspiration is the optimism and the fading world of glamour that emerged from the couture salons of the 1950s and the drama of taking off the jacket in a show. I feel nostalgic about fashion shows where models worked the clothes, pulled collars up and did the Parisian swirls on catwalks.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

With the internet anyone can see the new collections online, and all is so dull. You see one you’ve seen all of them… Where is the show factor? Hello!!!! that is why my shows have theatre and drama I wanna give time value to my audience . Also the collection is about the art of Undressing. I find Burlesque have a certain magic in undressing, that is why I wanted Miss Immodesty Blaize to model in my show.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-I love the idea of dressing those fabulous seemingly transgender models (please correct if that is the wrong term) whom you worked with in your latest show. Your incredible gowns look all the more mind blowing on their bodies. Do you always work with these type of models? where did this fabulous idea came from?
Thank you so much. My clothes are gender free, I refuse to be called a man because I have a penis and a woman needs more than a pair of tits and a vagina to become a woman.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

My models are my inspiration and they are in my show because they love dressing up and love my work. I refuse to force my clothes on any odd model from an agency. My clothes are made on my model sizes, an exaggeration of their character and looks. Without the people in my show there would be no clothes, I am grateful for their inspiration.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-How would you define your style?
Sophisticated underground full of Realistic Drama.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-In your eyes who are the ultimate style icons?
On a rainy day: the lady who is sat next to me on the bus with an immaculate hair.
I find her majesty Queen Elizabeth II fascinating.

© Image courtesy of Annie Leibovitz

-Do you have any muses in mind when you construct those amazing dresses? Who do you see wearing your designs?
My designs are made for people not my ego. My muse changes all the time, my models are my muse. My Mum is my ultimate inspiration.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-If you could dress anyone, (even people from history, from the past or from other eras) who would you like to dress and what would you make for them?
Dead or Alive it does not matter, as long as they pay cash. I love to dress all people but I can only dress few because my team is small and my prices are very high. So anyone is welcome but the waiting list is ’til August 2010.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-Which designers do you admire the work of and does any of them influence you?
Alexander Mcqueen, his work will be missed.

-Would you like to design for a major fashion house or would you rather continue working on your own label, under your own name?
I am open and receptive or all the good things that comes my way.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-How much does your very own Lebanese culture and background inspire you and how does that reflect in your work?
Lebanese culture is very rich, I am a citizen of the world and I am inspired by all cultures. I am a typical Lebanese when it comes to being a snob and the love for Gibran Khalil Gibran. I am proud to be born Lebanese but I am grateful to have the luxury of freedom, to be able to live where I wanna be – London.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-If you could invite 3 people from any era to come and have dinner with you, who would they be and where would you take them?
Eating is very intimate I am very selective with who I dine with. I would like to invite three people who are hungry and can not afford food and I will make them a home made chicken and vegetable soup.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

- If you were a work of art which one would you be and why?
Jeff koons’s‘Dirty Jeff on top’ from ‘Made in Heaven’. there are no hidden meanings and it is straight to the point.

-For you, what’s the hardest thing about being a designer?
The self destructive ego of some of the people that make my clothes.
Lack of communication and some nasty fashion trends.

-Favourite film?
A Short Film About Love (Polish: Krótki film o miłości)

-Favourite music?
Scarlett Etienne who compelled the music for my show… And forever I love ‘I just can’t get enough’ by Depeche Mode. To be played at my funeral please.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-Favourite book?
Tintin et Milou.

-Favourite London hangout?
Outside the Job center in Hackney, there is some real hotties.

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

-Thank you so much Ziad and finally please choose the song of the day.
Thank you Nona for your support, I am grateful. The song of the day is ‘I FEEL GOOD’ Live version by James Brown in a blue silver and brocade suit.

To know more about the fabulous Ziad Ghanem and see his amazing previous
collection visit his website: www.ziadghanem.co.uk

You can also see some fab behind the scenes pics at Dazed Digital,

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2010 collection - Image via Dazed Digital

and stills of his previous S/S 2010 show at VOGUE.com and stills from the A/W 2010 show on his Facebook fan page: ZIAD GHANEM

© Image courtesy of Paula Harrowing

All Ziad Ghanem’s images courtesy of the fabulous Paula Harrowing: www.paulaharrowing.com

XO
—Nonita

During the last year, there is probably not one photo or image that has not benefitted from a retouch before being published in the media. Photograph studios, magazines, newspapers, websites and advertising agencies use this program to “adorn” the details that the photo spontaneity do not have in spite of the lights and filters.

Meanwhile, models, actors and also politicians ask and demand that their campaigns or Book images look better: Welcome to the digital artifice that acts magically on the natural imperfections and contributes to the construction that stereotypes themselves!

How does it work?

In a first step the photography in question is scanned or uploaded to a computer and then you can “work” on the image on the computer screen and (avoiding the idea of underestimating the amount of hours the art directors works) you can begin the transformation: “Rub out those wrinkles, reduce the waist and the left buttock, rule out the hip and put a smooth and stiff skin” An intense work in order that the product gets finished, and the contemporary virtual act of putting and removing turn body parts in a fantastic beauty stereotype.

Mirror, mirror… Who is the most beautiful?

The pass of time on the body (and mostly the female one) is considered as a way of illness and deterioration. Unfortunately, this is the way of the market; big appearances to put nature against naturalness.

Before & After Photoshop.

Evoking that hostile stepmother from the “Snow-White” tale, there is a woman who does not allow herself to get old and feel jealousy and envy for the beauty of the youngers. Today, in an obsessive wish to keep an everlasting youth, the unreal mirror called “photoshop” cooperates as a time machine.

Greek Magazine: Nitro / Before & After a cover.

Allies or Enemy.

More than 80% of advertising images are touched. Normally, the concerned photographers and agencies are the ones who decide to manipulate it, but there are a lot of personalities that demand in advance that the Photoshop application is used. It’s clear that what models and celebrities most fear is to expose their bodies without tricks… and it is a one-way trip.

Changes in the skin texture with PS.

One example of that is Mariah Carey, who was gossip for the phothoshop excess and the beautiful Madonna. Beyonce, Penelope Cruz and… even Nicolas Sarkosy, president of France, made a bad impression when he cut his paunch in a photograph taken during his holidays.

The last straw

A few months ago, the design brand Ralph Lauren had to apologise for cuting (in an inacceptable extreme) the waist of a model. Before the fuss, the model Filippa Hamilton was to bid farewell to the campaign as she declared that the brand should give “a very big apology to all American women” because she considers that “a model should have a healthy look”.

Filippa Hamilton for Ralph Lauren / Victim of the Photoshop

On the other hand, Playboy Magazine Brazil published the photo of a model so “photoshopped” that they erased completely her navel. In the Argentine edition of the same magazine, they “arranged” for a photo a model left without a vagina.

Golden opportunity

As marketing strategy, several magazines have taken advantage of this boom in their favour: The most sold magazine in Germany, “Brigitte”, replaced the Photoshop with real women. “We are going to show women with identity. To the 18-year-old students, to the boss, to the musician, to the football players”, said proudly of the initiative the editor in chief of the magazine Andreas Lebert.

Let’s applause for this initiative and especially for the model Lizzie Miller who came out naked and showing that a model is a person with wrinkles … and beautiful folds in the paunch.

Lizzie Miller: "As I got older I realized that everyone's body is different and not everyone is skinny naturally-me included!

Another example is Mónica Belluci, Sophie Marceau and Eva Herzigova who resigned the photographic retouch through Elle Magazine from France. They suggested them to shoot and publish natural photographs… and see the results!

Monica Bellucci / Elle Magazine

Another nice example is modelmanagement.com’s photo sessions. A company that photographs aspiring models in a natural and fresh way, showing new models without any retouching, so that agencies and anyone else for that matter can see the models as they really are….no tricks….no gimmicks.

Yin y Yan

In spite of the manipulation on model’s photos and the directl consequences on the ideal aesthetic of whom receives it, we cannot affirm whether Photoshop is a negative support in the digital age or not.

This software, and many others, also contributes with excellent technical options that allow professionals to optimize their work across the adjustment of brightness, focus, real colour and quality. Likewise, Photoshop has contributed many tools to the digital art in all it’s expressions.

Before & After Photoshop / sermiranda.com

The alarming thing appears when its use influences with a distort conception of reality, taking onto account the consequences as bulimia and anorexia.

The well known model Nieves Alvarez has given her opinion in the matter: “Now we are all relaxed very much with Photoshop, which is a very nice application inside of a few limits, but when they leave you, you look like a plastic doll”… its not ” The model of Madrid, who years ago has conquered the anorexia she also confesses: “…you have to have your life, your expressiveness … we are not porcelain dolls”

Demi Moore. Her hip was shrink on the photo.

OF LAW / 37.500 EUROS IF YOU DO NOT WARN THEM.

The French deputy Valèrie Boyer (that belongs to the same politic party of Sarkozy) invokes that the “retouched” photos transmit womens stereotypes that can provoke psychological problems or nourishing disorders, and has presented a project of law where the fines come to 37.500 Euros if you do not warn that the image  has passed by Photoshop.

Photoshop & politician / Nicolás Sarkozy, presindent of France.

This initiative is not only for the advertising campaigns, but it also includes the photo press, the artistic ones and even the politician signs which dress the hoardings during the electoral campaigns.

Berlin. FTW Installation show photoshop up in the subway.

Thereby, the retouch images should be accompanied with this notice: “Photography retouched to modify the physical appearance of a person”. France follows United Kingdom steps, one of the first countries in being alerted to the harmful effects that the manipulation of the faces can have in the public.

Madonna. A pop star with photoshop.

I wonder what will have happen with the cosmetic surgeons? Have these digital liposuctions and lifting supplemented them? Or are they promoting their consultations with pieces of magazines to exemplify the phrase: “I WANT this nose”? In our hands we have several options to open a debate and to construct a reality that is simply how we want to appear to be.

More info: “The photoshop effect” / Campaña Dove /  Arte Digital (DAM Berlín)

Top model Erika Stasiuleviciute

They say that “a picture is worth a thousand words…” There is also a quote that says:
“pictures can never replace being there”. With that in mind I wonder… what about videos?

Ever since Fashion photography was developed, Photographers have been devoted to
capturing the essence of clothing, fashion and of the models, each developing its own
aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions are enhanced by exotic locations and story lines.

So I keep wondering… in these highly 3D obsessed times that we live in, where we
now watch the new fashion collections live-streamed, rather than on the pages of
fashion magazines, could photography soon be replaced entirely with videos? or will
the two continue to co-exist and complement each other? Will photography become
secondary to the new ‘moving image’?

Cameraman who filmed The September Issue and model at Vogue

What about printed media? what about magazines? With technology giving giants leaps,
could flat print fashion as we know it, soon become completely obsolete? Ever been scared
by the question: “Where do you see yourself in the next 10 years”? Well, think yourself
lucky you aren’t a fashion glossy!

Which brings me to yet another thought. For years, we have been admiring the beauty
in the images created by the most renowned fashion photographers such as Nick Knight,
Steven Meisel, Steven Klein, Corinne Day, Annie Leibovitz, Juergen Teller, David Simms,
just to name a few. Now, how many fashion videographers can you name, top of your head,
no cheating, no Googling or Wikipedia-ing? Exactly. I couldn’t think of a name either.
(Those of you who can please enlighten us with your knowledge)

So yes, I am new too to the idea of the ‘fashion video’ and so far, I am loving the scope
for creativity, beauty, art and poetry that there is in video-making and in all the new
fashion media available to us these days. Exciting times ahead, so watch this space.

Now, here are 3 of my favourite models/it-girls, photograph versus video. They are 3
very different styles but the videos seem to follow the same abstract idea. I love the
way in which they beautifully portray not only the clothes that the models are wearing
-in a seemingly subtle but yet very powerful way-whilst the focus seems to remain always
on the models and in the way that their personalities exude through the camera, which
follows their delicate and hypnotizing cat-like movements…

Here is the fabulous Model/Fashion Blogger Rumi Neely:

Rumy Neely - Model & Fashion Blogger

To see more images from Rumi check our her blog: Fashion Toast

The exquisite Top Model/Actress Erika Stasiuleviciute:

Top model Erika Stasiuleviciute

To view more images from Erika and to check out her profile at Profile Model Management
click HERE.

And the stunning Model/Dancer/Fashion Blogger Olivia Lo:

Olivia Lo - Model & Fashion Blogger

To see more images of Olivia, check out her fabulous blogs:

http://www.smvblog.com/wildcat/
http://theoliviaalo.blogspot.com/

To know more about fashion videos and the new fashion media world, visit
Nick Knight’s Showstudio.com.

‘Why shouldn’t – why couldn’t – fashion be emotional? – Alexander McQueen.

XO
Nona

Ow yes, we are back with New York Fashion Week’s most seen models. With so many gorgeous people walking around, no wonder the city never sleeps. Like Freja Beha Erichsen, discovered on the streets of her hometown Copenhagen. Since her first runway season she has been a highly wanted model for the show openings, and no change to that this season.

Opening Y3, Opening Oscar de la Renta, Alexander Wang

Narciso Rodriguez, Opening Derek Lam, Opening Diesel BlackGold

Tokyo Model Tao Okamoto became the face of Ralph Lauren for their Winter 2009/2010 campaign. She also appeared in their show this season. And well, still looking great with a haircut like that.. that means something!

Tommy Hilfiger, Isaac Mizrahi, Matthew Williamson

Ralph Lauren, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Diane von Furstenberg

Time for a little in between video fun of one of the shows: Vera Wang, who was inspired by Film Noir and brought another crew of NY’s finest catwalk faces to her runway: Opening model Keke Lindgard, Shu Pei Qin, Lais Ribeiro, Alana Zimmer and Lisanne de Jong.

And then there was Constance Jablonski (not related btw to another most seen face this Fashion Week Jacquelyn Jablonski). This French beauty appeared in both the UK Vogue and the US Vogue this February. She aspired to become a professional tennisplayer but her height and beauty put her modeling carreer on the first place.

Ralph Lauren, Derek Lam, Donna Karan

Marc by Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel BlackGold

And lastly I want to share the video of Proenza Schouler with you, whose collection was based on ‘a man’s life lived in a woman’s body’. Let’s just say that if a man would live in any of these women’s bodies, they would be quite lucky, no? Some of the most seen faces that were also in Proenza’s show: Sara Blomqvist, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Liu Wen, Dorothea Barth Jorgensen, Sigrid Agren and Flo Gennaro.

And the Fashion Week circus keeps on going, with London Fashion Week on the Spotlight now. I’m sure we’re gonna see a lot of these faces there as well!